Amir Chakhmaq Mosque Complex

The stunning three-storey facade of this Hosseinieh makes it one of the largest such structures in Iran. Its rows of perfectly proportioned sunken alcoves are at their best, and most photogenic, around sunset when the light softens and the towering exterior is discreetly floodlit. Recent work has added arcades at the side to keep traffic away from the structure. You can climb to the 1st floor of the structure and look over the square, but higher levels are not accessible.

Underneath the mosque complex is a bazaar where kababis specialise in jigar (grilled liver). In front of the Hosseinieh, look out for the huge wooden palm nakhl, an important centrepiece once used for the observance of the Shiites’ passionate Ashura commemorations.