Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh

Sayyed Mir Ahmad, one of Imam Reza’s 17 brothers, was hunted down and killed by the caliphate on this site in AD 835. His remains are housed at the glittering Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh. A mausoleum was first erected over the grave during the 12th century but most of what you see dates from the late-Qajar period and the Islamic Republic; expansion is ongoing.

The expansive courtyard is a great place to sit and discreetly observe the moving climax to what is an important religious rite for Shiites. Non-Muslims should ask for permission before entering – if you are polite and well presented, you’ll be allowed in. The multicoloured reflections from the countless minute mirror tiles inside the shrine are quite dazzling and the golden-topped minarets above it are superb. Women must put on a chador if they plan to enter the shrine itself; you can borrow one from the bookshop outside the complex. Cameras are forbidden inside the shrine but permitted in the courtyard.